Tips for Angora Rescue
Unfortunately, there are times when Angora rabbits are in need of rescue. While the frequency of these instances are generally far less than that of furred rabbits, it is still a topic that I feel needs to be addressed. None of the information in this article, or anywhere else on my website, for that matter, is meant to replace the advice or assistance of a licensed veterinarian, but hopefully it can get you through until such an appointment can be made.
With the rarity of these amazing breeds, comes the lack of education and understanding. Whenever I'm told about an Angora in a shelter, sadly, I never hear "they're in great condition and their coats are beautiful!" Often times, people have reached out to me for help. This section is intended to be a kind of 'crash course' for those of you who end up with an Angora and don't really know where to start!
The most important topic to cover is food. If you know, or can find out, what food it has been fed, please find out immediately so you can feed this as well. It is very important that you do everything in your power to keep from changing the rabbit's diet too suddenly. If I transition to a new feed, I usually do it over several week's time. However, in a rescue situation, this may not be possible. So what can you do?
Follow the 3 day hay rule. When you cannot use the food the rabbit is used to, or that food is not practical, feed only hay for 3 days. They will eat a lot of hay, and it can sustain them for much longer than these few days. You may add a little bit of oats in with the hay, but do not give anything else. No treats, no veggies, just hay. It's only 3 days, they'll be fine. Why hay? Hay is the most gentle food you can feed a rabbit. Feeding just hay for a few days will help keep the impact of a sudden change in diet at a minimum while the rabbit is adjusting to all of the changes it is going through. It is very high in fiber and reduces the likelihood of an upset stomach (which can be deadly in rabbits) verses going straight to a new feed. After the initial 3 days, start adding in a little pelleted food. I usually add a couple of tablespoons a day until they are up to a normal, healthy amount for their size. Once the rabbit is up to the proper amount of pellets for a few days, you can start offering veggies or treats, just make sure you introduce these things slowly and in moderation. If at any point during this regimen you start to see abnormal feces, back off on the pellets for a couple of days before adding more again. The most common problem I hear of in rescued rabbits is gastrointestinal problems resulting in diarrhea, and often death. It doesn't have to be this way! You can significantly reduce the frequency and impact of this issue by simply following the feeding regimen outlined above. I have personally rescued dozens using this method, and have not had 1 single problem. You can find more information on selecting a food here.
Now for the part that is probably why you are here: Grooming. Most likely, the rabbit in question is a horrible, matted, mess. The nurturer in you wants to get them cleaned up as quickly as possible. But first, you need to assess a couple of other things.
1. Is the rabbit healthy? Is it showing any sign of illness or injury? If so, it may need to see a veterinarian, and only minimal grooming should be worried about until you know it's safe. Why? Because if the illness is stress-related, or a problem that could be compounded by stress, then the last thing it needs is to be poked and prodded by a stranger, especially if that stranger isn't 100% comfortable with what they're doing. Waiting a day or 2 for the rabbit to settle in and feel safe may be the best thing to do.
2. Is the rabbit having abnormal feces? If so, this is a sign of stress. Many rabbits carry illnesses or parasites that don't generally cause them problems unless they are under stress. Much like how most people carry a certain strain of pneumonia but it doesn't typically cause them problems unless their body is under great stress (like when they are hospitalized for another serious illness or surgery.) At any sign of abnormal feces, pull all food but hay, and maybe a bit of oats, until the problem has resolved plus one day, or a veterinarian tells you otherwise. In a case like this, only worry about grooming to the extent that it affects the rabbit's health. Portions of the coat that have urine or feces on them should be removed. Any mats near the eyes on the head should be removed. Leave as much as you can until the rabbit is better adjusted. While they may be uncomfortable for an extra day or 2, that is better than having them sick for an extra day or two, or worse - dead.
Once you have determined that it is safe to groom the rabbit, please see our grooming and harvesting information for tips and tricks.
The next important topic is housing. It is extremely important that you keep the rabbit dry, including it's feet! Shavings and similar beddings should not be used with Angoras, as it mats into the coat. Wire flooring is typically the best for Angoras, as it keeps them clean and dry, which is a huge factor into their overall health. However, if you do not have access to housing with wire flooring, then any type of absorbent, removable material (such as sheets or towels or even puppy pads) may work. You will have to change it out several times a day though, unless the rabbit is 100% litter trained. Urine scalding of the feet is a real issue with Angoras that aren't litter trained and are kept in housing with solid floors, and it leads to incredibly painful sore hocks. You can find more on housing here.
The final stage of rescuing an Angora, is of course finding it a new, loving, home. Unfortunately, these guys aren't a good match for most pet homes. So how can you increase their chances of finding a good home? Proper marketing. Whether you realize it or not, anytime you make information about an available rabbit open to the public, you are marketing that rabbit. With Angoras, they are best marketed to fiber artists. Their wool is harvested during the normal hair cuts that have to be given anyway, but for fiber artists, that wool is incentive. It is incentive to keep the rabbit healthy, happy and well-groomed for it's entire life! It is incentive to keep the rabbit social. Fiber artists provide excellent homes for Angoras! Spread the word to your friends about the fiber rabbit(s) in your care. Word of mouth travels fast, and hopefully a nice fiber artist can be found to give the rabbit a loving, forever, home.
I am always willing to help in anyway I can. If you have additional questions, you may email me at [email protected].
With the rarity of these amazing breeds, comes the lack of education and understanding. Whenever I'm told about an Angora in a shelter, sadly, I never hear "they're in great condition and their coats are beautiful!" Often times, people have reached out to me for help. This section is intended to be a kind of 'crash course' for those of you who end up with an Angora and don't really know where to start!
The most important topic to cover is food. If you know, or can find out, what food it has been fed, please find out immediately so you can feed this as well. It is very important that you do everything in your power to keep from changing the rabbit's diet too suddenly. If I transition to a new feed, I usually do it over several week's time. However, in a rescue situation, this may not be possible. So what can you do?
Follow the 3 day hay rule. When you cannot use the food the rabbit is used to, or that food is not practical, feed only hay for 3 days. They will eat a lot of hay, and it can sustain them for much longer than these few days. You may add a little bit of oats in with the hay, but do not give anything else. No treats, no veggies, just hay. It's only 3 days, they'll be fine. Why hay? Hay is the most gentle food you can feed a rabbit. Feeding just hay for a few days will help keep the impact of a sudden change in diet at a minimum while the rabbit is adjusting to all of the changes it is going through. It is very high in fiber and reduces the likelihood of an upset stomach (which can be deadly in rabbits) verses going straight to a new feed. After the initial 3 days, start adding in a little pelleted food. I usually add a couple of tablespoons a day until they are up to a normal, healthy amount for their size. Once the rabbit is up to the proper amount of pellets for a few days, you can start offering veggies or treats, just make sure you introduce these things slowly and in moderation. If at any point during this regimen you start to see abnormal feces, back off on the pellets for a couple of days before adding more again. The most common problem I hear of in rescued rabbits is gastrointestinal problems resulting in diarrhea, and often death. It doesn't have to be this way! You can significantly reduce the frequency and impact of this issue by simply following the feeding regimen outlined above. I have personally rescued dozens using this method, and have not had 1 single problem. You can find more information on selecting a food here.
Now for the part that is probably why you are here: Grooming. Most likely, the rabbit in question is a horrible, matted, mess. The nurturer in you wants to get them cleaned up as quickly as possible. But first, you need to assess a couple of other things.
1. Is the rabbit healthy? Is it showing any sign of illness or injury? If so, it may need to see a veterinarian, and only minimal grooming should be worried about until you know it's safe. Why? Because if the illness is stress-related, or a problem that could be compounded by stress, then the last thing it needs is to be poked and prodded by a stranger, especially if that stranger isn't 100% comfortable with what they're doing. Waiting a day or 2 for the rabbit to settle in and feel safe may be the best thing to do.
2. Is the rabbit having abnormal feces? If so, this is a sign of stress. Many rabbits carry illnesses or parasites that don't generally cause them problems unless they are under stress. Much like how most people carry a certain strain of pneumonia but it doesn't typically cause them problems unless their body is under great stress (like when they are hospitalized for another serious illness or surgery.) At any sign of abnormal feces, pull all food but hay, and maybe a bit of oats, until the problem has resolved plus one day, or a veterinarian tells you otherwise. In a case like this, only worry about grooming to the extent that it affects the rabbit's health. Portions of the coat that have urine or feces on them should be removed. Any mats near the eyes on the head should be removed. Leave as much as you can until the rabbit is better adjusted. While they may be uncomfortable for an extra day or 2, that is better than having them sick for an extra day or two, or worse - dead.
Once you have determined that it is safe to groom the rabbit, please see our grooming and harvesting information for tips and tricks.
The next important topic is housing. It is extremely important that you keep the rabbit dry, including it's feet! Shavings and similar beddings should not be used with Angoras, as it mats into the coat. Wire flooring is typically the best for Angoras, as it keeps them clean and dry, which is a huge factor into their overall health. However, if you do not have access to housing with wire flooring, then any type of absorbent, removable material (such as sheets or towels or even puppy pads) may work. You will have to change it out several times a day though, unless the rabbit is 100% litter trained. Urine scalding of the feet is a real issue with Angoras that aren't litter trained and are kept in housing with solid floors, and it leads to incredibly painful sore hocks. You can find more on housing here.
The final stage of rescuing an Angora, is of course finding it a new, loving, home. Unfortunately, these guys aren't a good match for most pet homes. So how can you increase their chances of finding a good home? Proper marketing. Whether you realize it or not, anytime you make information about an available rabbit open to the public, you are marketing that rabbit. With Angoras, they are best marketed to fiber artists. Their wool is harvested during the normal hair cuts that have to be given anyway, but for fiber artists, that wool is incentive. It is incentive to keep the rabbit healthy, happy and well-groomed for it's entire life! It is incentive to keep the rabbit social. Fiber artists provide excellent homes for Angoras! Spread the word to your friends about the fiber rabbit(s) in your care. Word of mouth travels fast, and hopefully a nice fiber artist can be found to give the rabbit a loving, forever, home.
I am always willing to help in anyway I can. If you have additional questions, you may email me at [email protected].